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栽培計画 （作付けは広島県南部での目安です。) |
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野菜名をクリックすることでその野菜の作り方へＬＩＮＫしています。 |
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種蒔 |
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定植 |
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収穫 |
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野菜名 |
連作 |
1月 |
２月 |
３月 |
4月 |
5月 |
6月 |
7月 |
8月 |
9月 |
10月 |
11月 |
12月 |
発芽温度
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ワンポイント |
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チンゲンサイ |
1 |
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１５〜２５℃ |
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前作がアブラナ科の野菜でない畑を選ぶ,低温に当たるとトウ立ちする。 |
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水菜 |
1 |
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１５〜２５℃ |
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生育適温は15〜25℃で冷涼な気候を好む。 |
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ホウレンソウ |
1 |
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☆ |
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☆ |
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１５〜２０℃ |
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酸性土壌に弱い。芽出しをしてからまくと、発芽が揃う。
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レタス |
2 |
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☆ |
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☆ |
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１５〜２４℃ |
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冷涼な気候を好み、発芽温度暑さに弱い２５℃以上で休眠 |
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春菊 |
- |
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☆ |
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☆ |
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１５〜２０℃ |
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種子の発芽は好光性,収穫は、春蒔き４０、秋蒔き６０日 |
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大根 |
2 |
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☆ |
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☆ |
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☆ |
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１５〜３５℃ |
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９月に種をまいたのは年内収穫、生育適温は１７〜２０℃ |
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人参 |
- |
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２０〜２５℃ |
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冷涼な気候を好み、18〜20℃でよく育つ |
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カブ |
2 |
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☆ |
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１５〜２０℃ |
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ヨーロッパ系（小カブ等）と東洋系（聖護院等）がある |
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ブロッコリー |
2 |
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２５〜３０℃ |
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生育適温は１８から20℃、暑さや寒さに割合強い |
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キャベツ |
2 |
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１５〜３０℃
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品種を組み合わせればほぼ周年栽培できる。（晩夏蒔きの例） |
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白菜 |
2 |
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１８〜２２℃ |
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８月中に種蒔は年内に収穫。（９月の直播例） |
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タマネギ |
- |
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１５〜２５℃ |
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大苗になるほど収穫時期にとう立ちの危険がある |
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ジャガイモ |
2 |
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１６〜２１℃ |
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いもで伝染する病害が多い |
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里芋 |
4 |
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１５〜３０℃ |
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連作を避け耕土の深い、排水のよい畑を選ぶ |
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エンドウ |
6 |
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１５〜１８℃ |
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水はけと日当たりの良いところを選ぶ |
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かぼちゃ |
2 |
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２５〜３０℃ |
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排水のよい畑を選び、湿害を避けるため高うねが良い |
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ネギ |
- |
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２０〜２５℃ |
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湿気に弱く、酸性土壌に弱い、収穫時期９月〜６月 |
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ニラ |
2 |
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１５〜２０℃ |
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春か秋に堀り上げて、株分けをすると、４〜１０が収穫時期 |
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キュウリ |
2 |
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遅植えの収穫時期 |
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２５〜３０℃ |
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18〜28℃が生育適温。直種蒔は６〜７月 |
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トマト |
4 |
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２５〜２８℃ |
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温暖な気候と日当たりを好む |
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ナス |
5 |
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２５〜３０℃ |
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高温・多日照を好み、生育適温は２２℃から３０℃ |
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ピーマン, パプリカ |
4 |
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２７〜３０℃ |
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植え付け後１ヵ月たった頃から１０日おきに追肥を与える |
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ゴーヤ |
2 |
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２５〜３０℃ |
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親蔓を摘心して側枝の伸張を促し、蔓が一面に広がるよう誘引する |
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オクラ |
2 |
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２５〜３０℃ |
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酸性に弱いので、酸性土壌ではかならず石灰を施す |
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モロヘイヤ |
- |
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２５〜２８℃ |
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小枝をこまめに切る |
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シソ |
- |
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２５〜３０℃ |
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日当たり、水はけ、風通しのよい畑で栽培する。 |
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バジル |
- |
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２０〜２５℃ |
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本葉が８〜10枚ぐらいになった頃、摘心してわき芽を出す。 |
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イチゴ |
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鳥害対策 |
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平年の梅雨（６/７〜７/２１） |
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台風上陸が多い（８月〜９月） |
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鳥害対策 |
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←ブロッコリー・キャベツ |
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(寒冷紗をかける） |
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(遮光ネットをかける） |
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平均気温 |
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5.2 |
6 |
9.1 |
14.7 |
19.3 |
23 |
27.1 |
28.2 |
24.4 |
18.3 |
12.5 |
7.5 |
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1981〜2010間での平均気温 |
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最高気温 |
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9.2 |
10.6 |
14 |
19.7 |
24.1 |
27.2 |
30.8 |
32.5 |
29 |
23.4 |
17.4 |
12.3 |
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1981〜2010間での平均最高気温 |
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1月 |
２月 |
３月 |
4月 |
5月 |
6月 |
7月 |
8月 |
9月 |
10月 |
11月 |
12月 |
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光好性種子（春菊・レタス・シソ・ゴボウ・人参等）、嫌光性種子（なす・トマト・玉葱・大根等） |
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日当たりを好む野菜（トマト、なす、ピーマン、キュウリ、枝豆、トウモロコシ、ニンジンなど） |
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